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The KROW (Key Review of Wines) Issue 17
23rd February, 2009

The KROW (Key Review of Wines) Issue 17

This goes out as the Australian 2009 vintage is in full swing. It’s an unsettled time within the industry - excessive heat and bushfires have reduced the crop; smoke taint from the fires may reduce it further. At full production, Australia is capable of producing around two million tonnes of grapes; this equates to somewhere in the region of 144 million cases of wine.

Abundance is not good for us - we simply cannot sell the resulting wine. We are overstocked already and it’s looking ever more as if grape growers will take a hit in 2009. If not through heat and fire, then simply by harvesting grapes to the ground as no buyer could be found. Producers are being squeezed to provide cheaper wine as supermarkets in Australia and in the UK attempt to look like the good guys in the eyes of their consumers and offer ‘good value’ in the era of the global credit crunch.

Harder for many Australian producers to grasp is the change in drinking fashion - the simple fact that tastes change and we are falling down in the global popularity stakes. Before shaking our heads and lobbing an insult to the Poms and Yanks, think about the growing sales of New Zealand wine in Australia and think about your own loyalty.

Ironically, our wines have never been so good and at all price points. However, be prepared for a lot of negative press in 2009 – it’s going to be one hell of a year for the wine industry.

For those in the industry, the truth (no matter how unpalatable) is to be found in The Key Report. Click here for a free trial. For consumers, explore Australian wine in greater depth - there are some real beauties to be experienced.
Drink as well as your wallet allows in 2009
TK

The charts we used have not always transferred well when KROW was posted on-line therefore I have reverted to using a straight mark out of 100 for quality. Marking wines can be an emotive issue and there is no enforceable rule on what scale should be used.

The Australian show system uses marks out of 20; The American critic Robert Parker created the 100 point system. Several writers use stars or symbols, many out of five. To understand the true meaning of my approach to marking out of 100 accept a wine I consider of average quality to be 85 and believe me there is nothing wrong with a wine with 85 points.

In truth the value of a wine is directly related to the wealth of the drinker; those with untold millions in the bank may think nothing of drinking bottles worth hundreds of dollars/pounds/euros while those with an overdraft and more pressing financial matters might find spending over $10, £5 or €10 not a justifiable expense.

In regards to value for money, wine divides into two sections, roughly those up to 100 Dollars/Euro/Pounds and those over. Once a wine is over this amount then scarcity, fashion or plain pomposity is what is being paid for.

Up to that amount there really is a quality to value ratio. The hard part is expressing the value. I’ve experimented with charts, held long debates about a critic’s role in pricing; many reviewers make no comment, others use symbols. The most honest system is for me to give a wine the retail price I would pay e.g.: it sells for $25 but I say it would still be good value at $35. The difficulty with this approach is that it’s not up to me to dictate pricing therefore I have decided on the softer approach of just a few words of comment.

When I say ‘works better with food’ it’s because I have tasted it on the bench and then with food, as certain wines often taste better in this context. What food? Doesn’t matter - that’s up to you and I find it both a waste of time to just give one word examples as guidance (pork chop, tuna, quail) and a touch precious on the writer’s part. Also, I really don’t care what tucker you like, what I do know is a decent plate of food, enjoyable glass of wine and good company is enough.

Previous Issues

In this issue;

A Rose between 2 Thorns?

Cabernet Saviors

Chardie Rolls On

G and 3 Rs

Grigio, Gris or just overrated?

Mixed Varieties Value Whites